New York in Summer

Everyone is either heading to or planning to head to NYC soon and I’ve been asked for some of my recent trip highlights to pass on. I’ve compiled this list of places which I visited in August when it was hot and humid. Bear in mind that this was about my 5^th visit and I was here for 3 weeks so if you are visiting for the first time or a short time then you may want to explore some of the more obvious, touristy places too as they are magnificent (see my earlier posts on New York in September 2010 and July 2009). This list is more for people who want to do something a bit different or just want to hang out and soak up the atmosphere and fun vibe of the Big Apple. It also serves as my own travelogue but hopefully the places I describe will pique your interest in some lesser-known gems.

Staten Island

I’ve caught this free ferry from Manhattan to Staten Island many times and sailed past the beautiful Statute of Liberty but this time I actually got off the ferry with a plan to explore the island. That plan was short-lived. The ‘museum’ looked tiny from the outside and the town near the ferry wharf generally looked old and unappealing. The 9/11 memorial was interesting and you can get some great photos of Manhattan from the other side.

Roosevelt Island

I was lured by the free cable-car ride over but it only lasts about 6 minutes. Still it was fun while it lasted. The island itself is less exciting (for a visitor) since wheelchair-bound hospital patients lined the boardwalk which was rather depressing. I walked half a lap to take photos of Manhattan and then got the subway (F) back.

Governors Island

Of the 3 islands I visited, Governors was the most pleasant and one which locals seemed to hang out on during the weekend. The free ferry only goes from Manhattan on weekends but more often from Brooklyn I hear. You can easily walk around the whole island and check out the outdoor sculpture garden, other outdoor art and visit the outdoor beer gardens and BBQs.

Coney Island to Brighton Beach

I visit Coney Island occasionally because I like the retro element of it. It’s crowded on weekends and takes ages to get to. Definitely get an ‘Express’ subway. Then it’s a nice walk on the boardwalk along to Brighton Beach, when you can get on the ‘Brighton Beach’ subway stop to head back (about 15 minute walk).

Harlem

This was my first visit to Harlem. Get off at Subway, 125 station on the red line and basically walk along 125 St to the green line subway for a taste of what the neighbourhood has to offer. Explore the surrounding streets including the Apollo Theatre and the Friederick something boulevard (I’ve forgotten the name but you can’t miss it), Levain bakery (for their famous and heavy chocolate cookies) and interesting shops.

High Line

I've written about this before but I went again (and again!). It's simply a great space to visit, relax, walk, drink coffee, sunbake, etc. etc and the views down to the neighbouring streets is awesome.

Show on Broadway

I went to 3 shows: Spiderman (for U2’s score which was good but otherwise not worth it), Nice Work if you can get it (for Matthew Broderick who was only ok) and War Horse (for the amazing horse puppet). You can get discounted tickets online for most shows and if you don’t plan in advance, most theatres offer standing room only tickets on the same day. I tried to go to The Book of Mormon (by South Park creators) which was so popular that they have a lottery every day at 1pm – get there before 1pm to fill in a card and go in the lottery for 22 seats only! The #lotterydude was actually very funny and no, I didn’t win.

Parks

NYC has some stunning parks aside from the obvious Central Park. Bryant and Battery Parks are both nice for a walk or rest with a book and coffee. At Bryant you can see businessmen playing bocce and Battery offers nice coastal views. On the other side of the water, Brooklyn’s Botanic Garden and Prospect Park (visit both in one go) are also nice and worth a look in. Tompkins’ Square Park in the East Village was full of more eclectic characters, not to mention some dodgy ones.

Rockerfeller Centre and Top of the Rock

I’ve been to the top of the Empire State Building but never the Top of the Rock until this visit. It’s stunning! From the lift ride up, to the 3 levels on top which you can climb, it impresses. Timed entry only and it’s $25 but you can get a combined ticket with MOMA for $38 which saves you a bit since MOMA is over $20. They charge extra if you want to go at sunrise or sunset. Once you’ve bought your ticket, you can grab a seat in the foodcourt or a fancy seafood restaurant to sit ringside at Rockerfeller – there’s also a Blue Bottle coffee bar down there.

RESTAURANTS:

Eataly

Mario Battali, is a celebrity chef who is feared (on ‘Top Chef’) and revered in this town. His place Eataly is a food emporium and a bit like a gourmet food court / bar where there are counters that serve just cold meats or vegetables or seafood, etc. There is also a restaurant, book store, espresso bar, gelato bar and produce store. I ate at the seafood bar where they had a lunch special: $24 for 2 courses, usually one main is $22. The seafood was squeakingly fresh and cooked perfectly.

Les Halles

Anthony Bourdain’s imprint lives on at Les Halles. It’s not new and shiny or trendy like Bathazar or Pastis but it is one of the oldest and best classic French restaurants around. The roasted salmon fillet I had was served with sautéed red cabbage and a potato gratin which was tender and not oily.

Momofuku Noodle Bar

I visit here at least once if not many more times each time I’m in NYC. Great value lunches and a good way to sample David Chang’s food without the queues if you go at lunch. I always get the pork buns (fatty and juicy in a good way) but this time tried the kimchi jar which was delicious and the smoked chicken spicy miso ramen – highly recommended!

Grand Central Oyster Bar

This place is another famous haunt but obviously not for its’ Manhattan clam chowder which tasted like canned tomato soup. The oysters were fresh and delicious though so stick to them. Everything else on the menu is over-priced but it could be worth it if you want to try eating here and pretend you’re in Mad Men.

Buddakan

This is a NY experience – it’s big, buzzy, flash and fun. The food is modern Asian fusion. Everything we ordered was beautifully presented, tasted delicious and not crazy expensive. Their cocktails were also good. Book ahead on opentable.com a week in advance unless you want to eat at 6pm or 10pm. Try the ‘Lobster Rolls’ and ‘Peking Duck salad’ as entrees.

Real coffee

Don’t settle for Starbucks coffee. Finding real coffee is part of the fun. Check out: Joe the Art of Coffee, Blue Bottle, Café Grumpy, Ninth Street Espresso and Aroma – all have several branches around town. Then there are some one-off places that serve great coffee like Roasting Station (Lower East Side). Look up a list on Foursquare.    

Virgil’s BBQ

I recommend this place for dinner if you’re seeing a show on Broadway as there is a lot of touristy crap around Times Square. I had their pulled pork burger with mustard slaw and 2 sides of potato salad and coleslaw for $12 and the meat was so tender. Home made BBQ and chilli BBQ sauces. Messy but fun food as evidenced by the towel you're given in place of a napkin. If you’re in a rush before a show, then I’d recommend trusty Maoz. 

16 Handles

There are loads of frozen yogurt places around but 16 Handles is the most funnily-named and one where you can serve yourself by picking one of the 16 flavours including crazy ones like cheesecake, peanut butter and watermelon sorbet. Then you add on your own choice of toppings from fruit, to mochi, jellies, nuts, etc. and sauces and fudges before they charge you by weight. Yum!

GALLERIES

Guggenheim

I nearly always go to the Guggenheim when in town. Their exhibitions are always good as is their permanent collection. Go later in the afternoon when the crowds have thinned out slightly. There is an awesome portrait photographer exhibition currently.

New Museum

This is my new favourite gallery since the exhibition ‘Ghost in the Machine’ was curated superbly and absolutely fascinating. Highly recommended! Don’t miss the holographic display on the ground floor too.

Whitney

Kusama has a retrospective on currently which is incredible. She is a renowned figure in the NY art scene and she also has an exhibition called ‘Fireflies’ which you need to line up early to buy timed tickets too. I missed out on this but still had to queue for nearly an hour to get into the Whitney at around 11am.

Museum of Art and Design

There was a critically-acclaimed exhibition on here when I visited that displayed artists use of sand, dust and discarded materials. It may not sound great but it was.

SHOPS

Opening Ceremony

The bigger store is in Soho and worth checking out for their funky design. I always visit when in town and nearly always find something I love. They have a smaller store in the ACE Hotel that’s great too.

Dylan’s Candy Bar

This big 3 storey-space which includes a café sells their own chocolate and candy as well as brands from around the world. They make retro-inspired treats like Neapolitan Ice-Cream flavoured malt balls, Banana Cream Pie chocolate bars and candy-covered pretzels. Great for gifts and just getting a sugar-overload.

SIDE TRIPS

Albany

Albany is the capital of New York state and it shows. There are stately buildings everywhere. It’s about a 1 hour train ride away on Amtrak. I only stayed for less than 24 hours to see a show at The Egg venue but I did explore downtown (very quiet) and the restaurant neighbourhood (also very quiet).

Philadelphia

I went to Philly for the weekend and 1 night which was good to get a taste of downtown. The Art Gallery was incredible and I spent over 3 hours there. It’s very walkable with outdoor art everywhere. I went to Sampan, a modern Asian restaurant for dinner which was fantastic. It’s pretty cheap for the quality and quantity of food served. Black miso cod served on mustard cauliflower topped with apple slaw - mmmm!

Part of the beauty of NYC is that there are so many places and new ones springing up all the time so hopefully you might like some of these tips but you’ll no doubt have your own adventure when you visit. Live, eat, lounge and enjoy your own, unique experience!